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DAMASCUS
In the heart of the oasis of the Ghouta, surrounded
by mountains and irrigated by the Barada River, Damascus is a
privileged site of residence in Syria. The view of Damascus seen
from the top of the Qassioun Mountain, or the vision of this
antique town in its frame of greenery, when one comes from
Beirut, will remain an unperishing souvenir for the traveller.
With Samarkand,.it's the city that has been the most often
celebrated by the poets and the men of letters of all time. The
name itself represents the mystery and opulence of 'The Thousand
and One Nights'.
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Closer
in time, it evokes the same adventure with the Image of Lawrence
of Arabia eating the grapes of Damascus.The more that one
discovers this city, the more that one falls under its charm. On
a background of omnipresent sound, a multitude of narrow streets
modestly hiding little palaces or houses of wood dating back to
the middle-ages, not forgetting the exuberant souks which
delight our senses: so many colors, smells and noises! It's a
multi-millenium city that one must see at least once in a
life-time. Continuously inhabited since the millenium, Damascus
is one of the oldest cities in the world. A prosperous city from
the 2nd millenium, the Aramaeans made it the capital of a
powerful kingdom until the 1st millenium. In 732 BC, the
Assyrians take possession of the city.
When Nabuchodonosor conquers Syria and Palestine in 572 BC, the
country falls under the thumb of Babylon, followed by the
Achemenid Persians. After the conquest of the country by
Alexander the Great, its urbanism and organization are designed
according to the Hellenistic plan: roads at right angles and the
building of a palace, a theatre, an agora, baths and a temple
dedicated to Zeus. In 84 BC, tired of the quarrels with the
Seleucids, the Damascenes ask the help of Aretas, Nabatean king.
Rome also interferes and Pompei finally settle in Damascus in 64
BC. From this moment on, Damascus takes advantage of the "PaxRomana".
Made wealthy by the restarting of commerce, the city beautifies
itself: its ramparts, ornated with seven doors, are built at
last. An aqueduct distributes water from the Barada to the
houses and to the thermal baths of the town. The cardo, today
known under the name of "Straight Street" or "Via
Recta", appears.
Saul of Tarse, persecutor of the Christians, converts to
Christianity in Damascus and becomes Saint Paul.
In 117, the emperor Hadrian honors the city with the title of
metropole. Damascus becomes the capital of Phoenician Syria in
195 and rises to the rank of "colonia" in 244, thanks
to the Roman Emperor Philip the Arab.
In the course of the 3rd century, the manufacturing industry
develops (arms, textiles: cotton and silk, glass) and during the
Byzantine period, from the 4th to the 6th century, the
construction of the cathedral of Saint John the Baptist is
effectuated on the site of the temple of Zeus. Numerous churches
are also erected, such as Saint Mary and Saint Thomas.
The
7th century witnesses several upheavals:
- In 613, the taking of Damascus by Sassanid Persians and
the deportation of its inhabitants.
- In 636, Damascus under siege for six months, surrenders to
Khaled Ibn El Walid and becomes Muslim.
- In 661, the Sultan Moawiya, founder of the Omayyad dynasty,
makes Damascus the capital of the empire. It remains so until
750. The Omayyad century (661-750) corresponds to the blossoming
of Islamic art of which unfortunately remains only the famous
Omayyad mosque erected on the site of the Saint John the Baptist
Cathedral. Its plan constitutes the prototype of the, "so
called", Arab mosque.
In 750, the Abassids drive out the Omayyads and transfer their
capital to Baghdad. In spite of this, Damascus conserves an
important regional prestige. The Seljuqs take their turn as
masters of the city building the citadel, which, not only serves
as a royal residence, but also as a fortress. In 1154, Nour Ed
Din renders Damascus its title of capital. Saladin, who governs
it afterwards in 1174, stops the Crusaders from taking
possession. In spite of the Mongol incursions of 1260 and 1400,
the Mamelukes in power take up the construction and the
restoration of numerous monuments. The Ottoman period, (from
16th to the 18th century), after a period of political
instability, is marked by a commercial "renaissance";
Damascus is blossoming and getting wealthy. The houses become
more beautiful and districts, like Midan, are created. Damascus
follows the decline of the Ottoman Empire and it's not until
the19th century, that it once again finds its splendor, thanks
to Governors Midhat Pacha and Nazem Pacha. They reorganize the
city most notably by building the districts of Marjeh, and
Mouhajerine and by enlarging the souks. These works were
completed during the French occupation from 1920 onwards.
Some
monuments to visit in Damascus:
- The Omayyad Mosque, The Mausoleum of Saladin, The Tekiyeh
Souleymanieh and its Khan, The Church of St Ananias, The Azem
Palace, The Street called Straight.
Other
places of interest:
- The National Museum, The Old Town, Damascus viewed from
the top of Mount Qassioun, Straight street, The Hamidieh souk,
The Nour Ed- Din hammam.
SURROUNDING DAMASCUS
The Tomb OF Abel
Abel, assassinated by his brother Cain, was reportedly buried on
the summit of a mountain on the way to Bloudan, about 20 Km from
Damascus. A place of Druze worship was erected on the spot to
mark the tomb of humanity's first murder victim.
The
Tomb of Sayyeda Zeinab
Here lays the fourth daughter of Ali, the son-in-law of the
prophet Mohammed. The tomb, a place of pilgrimage for the
Shiites, distinguishes itself from other Syrian monuments by the
magnificence of the setting. It is entirely decorated with
Persian style turquoise earthenware and its dome is covered with
golden leaves.
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Ma'alula
An impressive screen of mountains conceals a little
Christian village with houses painted in periwinkle blue. Its
inhabitants still speak Aramaic, the language of Christ. One of
the oldest churches in Syria overhangs the village, the Mar
Sarkis church, where one can admire icons dating back to the
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Seydnaya
Here one not only finds the vines of the wine spoken
of in the Bible, but also a convent built in 547 housing one of
the four icons made by the apostle Luke featuring the Virgin
Mary.
Dumeir
In 84 AD, the Nabateans built an altar here dedicated
to the Semite God Baal
Shamin. During the Roman period, the village took the name of
Thelsae. In 245
AD, Philip the Arab had the temple of Zeus Hypsistion built here
which was
fortified by the Muslims.
Yabroud
This site, inhabited for tens of thousands of years,
belonged to Agrippa 2nd, who received it from the emperor Claude
in 53 AD. The Byzantines used some of the elements of the temple
of Jupiter to construct a church that, today, houses a beautiful
collection of icons.
Deir Mar Mousa (Nabeck)
Here one can admire a monastery and a chapel dating
back to the 6th century AD and abandoned in the 17th century AD.
It was probably founded by Saint Mousa (Moses), the Ethiopian.
Apart from the frescoes realized in the 7th century AD, others
painted in the 11th century bring much charm to this antique
place of worship hidden in the Syrian Mountains.
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ALEPPO
Syria's second city, but nonetheless rich and
cosmopolitan. Aleppo has always had an important political and
economical role. It disputes with Damascus the title of the
"the world's oldest continuously inhabited city". The
first human community at the origin of Aleppo lived in a place
commonly known as El Maghayer, meaning "the caves",
near to Aleppo .It figures under the name of "Halab"
from the 3rd and 2nd milleniums in the archives of Ur and of
Mari. In 1780 it becomes the capital of a prosperous but coveted
kingdom: The Yamhad, Egyptian, Babylonian and Hittite texts of
the 17th century BC, also attest to the importance of this
remote age.
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Undergoing
Hittite domination in the 17th century BC then Mitanian
domination in the 14th century BC, the city refalls into the
Hittite belt towards 1370 BC. In the 9th century BC, Aleppo is
an Aramaean capital then the Assyrians (738), the Babylonians
(6th century BC) and the Persians all take turns in conquering
the city. Re-baptized "Beroia" and constructed
according to a Hippodamian plan when the Seleucids hellenize
Syria, it remains in the shadow of Antioch, the capital of the
empire. From 64 to the 2nd century AD, it is a Roman town. From
the 4th to the 6th century a Byzantine town, and finally from
637 a Muslim town. Under the Abbassids, in 944, a Muslim chief,
Saif Ed Daouleh makes it the capital of the principality of
Hamdanit.
From 964, Aleppo was taken and nearly destroyed by the emperor
Nicephore Phocas. A period of troubles begins by ending with the
Bedouin dynasty of Mirdassis (1023-1079), however, Saladin who
achieves the unity of Egypt and Syria, takes possession of
Aleppo in 1183 and puts Aleppo in charge of the Jihad against
the Crusaders. His son organizes the building of the wall of
stones, which, to this day still surrounds the citadel.
Al Zahir Ghazi orders the building of almost thirty "Madrasa"
(Koran schools), mosques (of which the Great Mosque), "khanqas"
(places for mystics), souks, caravansary and also restores the
canalization. After an exceptionally prosperous period under the
Ayyubids, Aleppo suffers hard the consequences of the pillages
by the Mongols. The Mamelukes take advantage of this weakness
and take possession of the town. It is not until 1516 that
Aleppo once again finds its commercial dynamism with the Ottoman
domination. From 1535, France, England and Denmark open their
counters to Aleppo, which makes the town prosperous and
cosmopolitan. In 1946, on the creation of the Syrian Arab
Republic, Aleppo returns into the shadow of its capital,
Damascus.
Some
monuments to visit in Aleppo:
The Citadel
Madrasa, Halawiyeh, and Madrasa El Firdoss
The Great Mosque.
Other
places of interest:
The Museum
The Market
The Old Town
Jdeideh, the Armenian quarter
SURROUNDING ALEPPO
Ebla
The site, also known under the name of Tell Mardikh,
dates back to the 4th millenium BC. The center of Ebla, the
acropolis, progressively took importance until it became the
capital of a powerful kingdom to the north of Syria. Its walls
housed at this time some 30 000 people. Between 2400 and 2250
BC, the royal palace "G" was constructed. Ebla knew a
period of glory that attracted much lust, like when it was
pillaged and burned towards 2250 BC by Naram Sin. The town,
reborn from the ashes, restarts commercial activity and grows in
spite of a second destruction in 2000 BC. Temples and three
palaces where built. Ebla becomes politically weaker during the
Assyrian domination and in 1625 BC, the Hittites ravage it. Ebla
never recovers. Little by little its inhabitants desert the town
and it falls into oblivion....
Maarat En-Numan
Maarat En-Numan for a long time carried the name of
Arra. It was then a Greek-Roman town, which was taken and
destroyed by the Byzantine emperor Nicephore Phocas in 968. In
1099, Maarat En-Numan witnessed a terrible event that marked the
Crusaders just as much as the "Saracen" episode: On
the road to Jerusalem, the Crusaders stopped and massacred 20
000 people. With Christmas approaching, pushed by hunger, they
committed acts of cannibalism on the bodies. It was not until
1135 that they left the site driven out by Zhengi the Turk.
Later, the Muslims built mosques, of which the Great Mosque, and
khans with and on top of the remnants of the old town. To visit:
The Khan Murad Pasha today converted into a museum of Roman and
Byzantine mosaics.
The "Dead Cities"
An extraordinary site: 700 towns spread over a
perimeter of 2 000 Km2. To qualify them as "dead"
seems displaced when one contemplates them today. It seems, in
fact, as if their inhabitants have just left the site, so much
the conservation is exceptional, thanks to the quality of the
stone. From the 1st to 6th centuries, the region distinguished
itself by its olivaries. They were developed and especially
popular, thanks to the system of "murgasa"
Which, consists in offering a peasant some capital and land that
he must cultivate until production. Then, the owner recuperates
half of the land and the peasant keeps the other half. From the
6th century onwards, the Byzantine-Persian wars ruin this
micro-economy.
With the Muslim conquests in the 7th century, the villages, no
longer able to trade with the Christian West, abruptly lose
their population.
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Saint -Simon
In Arabic, "Qalaat Seman", this site bears
the name of the ascetic Saint- Simon (4th century AD) who spent
forty-two years of his life here, isolated on the top of a
column that was several times made higher (reaching up to about
20 metres). His reputation was such that he was known as far
away as the occident. After his death, the hill where he had
lived became a much- frequented place of pilgrimage. In the 5th
century, a "martyrium" was built: an immense cruciform
church, with in the middle, the remains of the column of
Saint-Simon. Chapels, a monastery and a baptistery were erected
around the church, as well as "hotels" to welcome the
pilgrims.
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The
Byzantines occupied and fortified the site in the 10th century
before it was once again abandoned. It is to be noted that at
the foot of the hill of Saint-Simon, a village: Deir Semaan,
relayed to the monastery by a processional road, also housed
many pilgrims.
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Kirkbizeh
This ancient Christian village is built around a
house dating from the 3rd century, transformed into a church the
following century. It contains relies of one of the first
martyrs. The first Christians clandestinely celebrated their
masses here until the Edit of Milan (313).
Qalb Lhoze
Qalb Lhoze signifies in Arabic "the heart of an
almond". Behind this charming name lies a little village
and above all a remarkable basilica having probably served as a
model for the churches of the region. This church built towards
450 is dedicated to Saint-Michael and Saint-Gabriel.
El-Bara
El-Bara is one of the greatest "dead
cities" both in size and importance. In fact it remained
for a long time a first class center of communication, but the
prosperity of the town leant also on a dynamic agriculture and
also on the fact that it housed an important religious center.
The Crusaders arrived here in 1023 but their presence would be
short lived: they were expulsed in 1098 following the massacres
committed in Maarat En Numan. Today, a cathedral, four churches
(5th and 6th centuries), tombs with pyramidal roofing (5th
century), wine-presses, two store houses and a rich Roman villa
(3rd century) transformed into a convent, bear witness to the
glory of this by-gone age .
Sergilla
Modest but well conserved, this village, apart from
its private habitats and agricultural villas, includes a
necropolis, a church, thermal baths, wine-presses and an "androon"
where the local officials met up.
Ain Dara
Occupied since the 1st millenium until the time of
the Seljuqs, the town became a small Aramaean kingdom towards
1190 BC, a Neo-Hittite civilization develops building the temple
of Ishtar between the 10th and 9th century BC. Ain Dara,
destroyed in the 7th century BC and rebuilt in the 4th century
BC, prospers during the Roman period then slowly withers after
the Muslim conquest.
Cyrrhus
Cyrrhus carries the name of a Macedonian town:
Cyrrhos. Capital of the Cyrrhestic,
(Province of the Seleucid kingdom), the town served as a shield
against invasions.
It was also the crossroad of the northern roads and the home of
a flourishing agriculture. Occupied from the 2nd century AD, it
served as a base for the military campaigns carried out against
the Armenians of the north. In the 3rd century AD, its role of
caretaker of the border was appropriated by Hierapolis (Membij).
It was then twice occupied by Persians until Theodoret of Cyr
(423 to 450 AD) renovates and fortifies it in line with his
border work project aimed at containing the Persian attacks.
Thus, under the name of Hagiopolis, the town knows a regain of
activity, especially religious: pilgrims come in great numbers
to render hommage to Saint-Cosmas and Saint-Damian. Troubles
disrupt northern Syria in the 6th and 7th centuries resulting in
a reduction of activity that only accentuates under the
successive dominations (Latin, Armenian and Arab), until the
13th century when Cyrrhus falls into oblivion.
Membij
Under the name of Hierapolis, its fame spreads over
the Roman Empire, hellenized by Seleucos Nicator during the 3rd
century BC, the town developed around the Atargatis cult, (the
Mesopotamanian goddess), at Atargatis and at Haddad. A local
dynasty "sponsored" this cult during the Persian
period so successfully that Hierapolis became the most important
religious center in Syria. This popularity only became greater
when the Emperor Heraclius came to the town in search of the
'True Cross" that was stolen by the Persians during the
pillaging of Jerusalem in 614 AD. The Muslims and the Zengids
succeeded one another (11th and 12th centuries AD), the
Crusaders made raids in 1110, 1119 and 1124, and finally Nur Ed
Din built a "Madrasa" in the town in 1156.
Halabiye - Zenobia
Previously a Roman garrison town bearing the name of
Birtha, it took the name of Zenobia (a tribute to the Queen of
Palmyra), after the victory of Odenathus over the Persians in
270 AD. During the 3rd century Diocletian reestablished the
limes and fortified Zenobia. Justinian restored the town in the
4th century and later the Arabs constructed a fortress.
Zalabiye
The town is opposite Halabiye, on the other side of
the Euphrates. In fact, these two towns are situated at the
most-narrow point of the Euphrates. The function of Zalabiye was
to control the river and to assist the pilgrims visiting the
tomb of Saint- Serge in Rassafa. Zalabiye was largely destroyed
because of an earthquake, erosion and the re-use of some of the
stones for the ballast of the railway.
Rassafa
Even though already known at the time of the
Assyrians and cited in the Bible, Rassafa only had its glory
from the Byzantine period when it became an important center of
pilgrimage. Sergius, a Roman soldier converted to Christianity,
and who according to the legend, was decapitated for refusing to
make a sacrifice in the honor of Jupiter, became a martyr and a
saint. He gave his name to the town: Sergiopolis (5th century).
Justinian improved the fortifications of the town in the 6th
century, an act that did not stop the Persians from possessing
it the following century. Hisham, an Omayyad Caliph from the 8th
century, restored the town and adorned it with a palace and.a
burial- place! Later, the town suffered pillages committed by
the Abassids, an earthquake and the deportation of its
inhabitants to Hama by the Sultan Baybars. The Mongols finished
making Rassafa what we call today a "dead city".
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PALMYRA
What surprise, but also what delight to discover
after hours of driving through an immense rocky expanse, the
drop of water, the- pearl in the desert. Magnificent remnants
lost in the middle of the desert, this oasis never fails to make
one dream. People from all over the world come to admire the sun
go down on this large village that once,
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the
capital of an empire, made Rome tremble. Its name, Tadmor,
appears for the first time in the Mesopotamian texts dating back
to the 2nd millenium BC. The Greeks made it a town organized
according to Hellenistic conceptions and re-baptized it Palmyra.
Tribes of various origins (Aramaeans, Iranians, Arabs,
Phenicians, etc..) at that time, constituted the essential of
the population (3rd century BC), until 64 BC when Pompei
installs himself in Syria.Under Tibere (from 14 to 37 AD), the
site is definitively controlled by Rome. Palmyra, profiting
under the "Pax Romana" and perceiving "customs
duty" for all products imported into its empire and
transiting through the town (obligatory stop-over on the silk
road), becomes considerably more wealthy. The emperor Adrian,
visiting in 129 AD gives back Palmyra its status of a free town.
The town therefore receives taxes from Rome and in doing so
becomes even richer. The majority of the monuments that can
still be admired today date from this period: The temple of Baal
Shamin, The Agora, The Great Colonnade. In 212 AD, Caracalla (of
Syrian origin) allows Palmyra to attain the title of "colonia"
or colony of the Roman Empire.
Its role extends to the defense of the "limes" against
the threats of the Persians.The weakening of the Roman empire
shows in the fact that Palmyra progressively manages to widen
its zone of influence, but this success displeases its leaders.
After an audacious victory over the Persians in 260, the King
Odenat proclaims himself the "King of Kings".
Assassinated, his famous widow, Zenobia, pushes their son,
Wahaballat, onto the throne and in his name throws herself into
reckless conquests. Finding herself at the head of an empire
stretching from Egypt to Anatoly, she embodies a challenge for
Rome, who reacts in the person of Aurelian. In 271, Palmyra
being under siege submits, but Zenobia flees. She is captured as
she prepares to cross the Euphrates and was probably taken to
Rome.
Her end remains uncertain. Two years later, following a
rebellion by its inhabitants, Palmyra is pillaged and destroyed,
with its people massacred by Aurelian. Palmyra never again finds
its past splendor. The remnants of churches and the mention of a
Palmyran bishop in the list of priests present at the Council of
Nicee (325 AD) attest to an occupation of the town during the
Byzantine period. In the 17th century AD, the Druze Emir Fakhr
Ed Din builds a castle hanging over the site of Palmyra: it is
often spoken of as "the Arab Castle". In becoming
Muslim, Palmyra retakes her old name of Tadmor. The stones of
numerous edifices are re-used in the construction of private
habitats and in 1132,
The temple of Bel was transformed into a fortress and the "cella"into
a mosque.
Monuments
to visit in Palmyra:
The Temple of Bel, The Great Colonnade, The Temple of Nabu,
The Thermal Baths,
The Agora, The Tetrapyles, The Theatre, The Temple of Baal
Shamin, The Funeral temple, The Tombs.
Also
to visit:
The museum, The dried out sulfuric water spring of Afqa, and
The- quarry (where the stones of the columns were cut.)
SURROUNDING
PALMYRA
The Castle Qasr El-Hir Ash-Sharqi
It was constructed in 728 AD, during the Omayyad period, under
the reign of the Caliph Hisham. Over the 850 hectares of ground
in the surrounding area, limited by a wall of bricks of
twenty-two kilometers, agriculture was made possible, thanks to
an irrigation system. This desert observation post constituted a
place of rest where one hunted for leisure. It also allowed the
control of the traffic of goods coming from Persia. The Abbasids
also occupied it before it became definitively abandoned after
the Mongol invasions (13th century AD).
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The Castle Qasr El-Hir Al-Gharbi
The Palmyrans were the first to establish themselves
on this site in the 1st century AD, but it was abandoned after
their revolt in 273 AD. The Byzantines and their local ally, the
tribe of the Ghassanides, recuperated the site in 559 AD and
built a monastery here. The Omayyad Caliphs, natives of the
Arabian desert, made of it a place of relaxation and leisure and
built a hunting "lodge" (the initiative of Caliph
Hisham in 727 AD).
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In
practice, the castle served to consolidate their ties with the
tribes and affirm their position at the limits of the kingdom.
The Ayyubids and the Mamelukes occupied the site until the
Mongol invasion after which the site was deserted.
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BOSRA
Bosra is situated on a basaltic plateau in the heart
of the fertile region of the Hauran. Its black rocks, employed
in construction for many centuries, give much originality to the
entire region. Moreover, the solidness of the basalt has allowed
the erected monuments to face admirably the ravages of time.
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Mentioned
for the first time in the Egyptian archives in 1350 BC, under
the name of Busrana, the town seriously develops from the 2nd
century BC. It becomes the regional capital of the Nabatean, a
title that will be officially awarded to it in the 1st century
BC under Rabbel 2. In 106 AD, Trajan annexes the Nabatean and
chooses Bosra as the capital of the "Provincia
Arabia", Situated on the principal axe of communication,
the "Via Nova Trajana" imposes itself as the
obligatory point of passage and no less than 5 000 Roman
soldiers install themselves there. With bigger and more
beautiful public edifices organized around a "cardo"
and a "decumanus", the town is re-baptized "Nova
Trajana Bostra" by Trajan between 98 and 117 AD and during
the same century, a large theatre seating 17 000 is built,
remaining practically intact to this day. From the beginning of
the 3rd century AD, Christianity, in its moment of great
expansion, changes the urban landscape: numerous churches and a
cathedral dedicated to the saints Sergius, Bacchus and Leonce
are built. A Roman basilica is transformed into a church called
the Convent of Bahira, the Monk This monk, reputed in Islam,
recognized in the child Mohammed, the future prophet.
After the Muslim conquest of Bosra in 632, the region serves as
a battle- field for the Muslims and the Byzantines who fight for
the control of Syria. Thirty-six mosques, of
Which the El Omar Mosque, are constructed and many Christians
convert to Islam. The Seldjuqs, governing the town from the end
of the 11th century AD reestablish prosperity and protect the
town from the Crusaders. Fortified by Nour Ed Din, the Ayyubids
make
an authentic citadel out of the Roman theatre which was later
conquered by the Mongols. Baybars restores it in 1261. The road
leading to Mecca being modified (partly due to the raging
brigand- ages in the Hauran), Bosra's importance declines to
such an extent that it becomes a mere village. This agricultural
region, traditionally prosperous, only really recuperates its
activity from 1886 when thousands of Druzes install themselves
in Bosra.
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SURROUNDING
BOSRA
Sweida
In spite of the fact that the antique village is
actually concealed under modern constructions, one can still
visit superb mosaics and sculptures exposed in the town's museum
and admire the four columns of the Nabatean temple as well as
the remains of a
Large basilica, dating back to the 4th century AD.
Qanawat
Qanawat was founded towards the 1st century BC. Its
name is mentioned in the Bible when, under the reign of Herod
Agrippa, the region was victim of bandits. It then became a
region of conflict between the Nabateans and the Jewish Kingdom.
Town of the Decapolis from the time of Pompei until the
beginning of the 2nd century AD, Septimus
Severus gives it the name of "Septima Canatha" and of
Syrian "Provincia". The town attains the level of
"Provincia Arabia". Before the town falls into the
hands of the Muslims in 637, Christianity develops (4th and 5th
century AD), and two basilicas were erected as well as a
collection of buildings called "serail", a Byzantine
religious complex built around an "atrium".
Shahba
First Hellenistic until the 4th century BC, then
Nabatean to the 1st century AD, Shahba transforms itself into a
model Roman town.
In 244 AD, Philip the Arab, descendent of this small village,
becomes Roman emperor and decides to reorganize its city-plan.
He decorates the town with new monuments (triumphal arch,
theatre, thermal baths, palaces, agoras, temples, etc.) and
re-baptizes it Philippopolis. It is to be noted that four
frescoes of great beauty (4th century AD) found "in situ"
are exposed in the town's museum.
Ezraa
Here one finds a Greek Orthodox Church that figures
amongst the oldest still in use in Syria. Erected in 515 AD on
the site of an ancient temple, it is the oldest basilica in the
world built according to an octagonal plan and crowned with a
dome. Two hundred meters away, one finds a second church (Greek
Catholic) called the Church of Saint-Elias dating from 542 AD.
It is cruciform and east- west oriented. Originally its dome was
made of wood. Still in the region, one can visit the remnants of
habitats dating back to the Roman period.
Deraa
Today the capital of "Mohafazat"
(administrative region), Deraa has an antique theatre and the Al
Omar Mosque.Lawrence of Arabia was made prisoner here by a
Turkish garrison during an intelligence mission in 1918.
Salkhad
If one refers to the geographer Abo Il Fida (16th
century AD), Salkhad was the last town before the desert on the
track to Baghdad. In 1073, the Fatimids built a fortress and in
1214 - 1247 the Ayyubid citadel was constructed on the crater of
a volcano, the cone making up an exterior defense. It allowed
the region to the south of Damascus to be protected from
possible attacks from the Crusaders present in Jerusalem. This
stronghold was renovated in 1277 by the Mameluke sultan Baybars.
After the Ottoman occupation, the town was abandoned and fell
into oblivion until the last century when Druzes from Lebanon
found refuge here.
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THE EUPHRATES ' VALLEY
Dura Europos, 'The Pompei of the Syrian Desert".
Founded in 303 BC by Nicator, a general of Seleucos 1, on the site of
an Assyrian fortress named Dawara, the town becomes Dura, meaning
fortress in the ancient semite language, and Europos in memory of the
birthplace of Seleucos 1 Nicator in Macedonia. Dura Europos, designed
to welcome Greek and Assyrian settlers, was also part of a network of
military colonies that secured control of the central region of the
Euphrates. The town organized itself like a draught-board according to
a Hippodamian plan, housing blocks of 35 by 70 meters, including 8
houses, separated by perpendicular streets. The palace and the temples
were to the south of the town. By the 2nd century BC, the town had
enlarged. After the Seleucides, the Parths were the new masters for a
period of approximately three centuries starting from 113 BC.
Previously defensive, the town becomes residential and
Commercial with a population more and more cosmopolitan: Iranians and
Semites joining the Greeks. In the 2nd century BC, the region of the
Euphrates falls under Roman control. From this period, only the
triumphal arch and the Roman citadel remain. In 161 AD, an earthquake
seriously damages the town but not destroying it as in 212 AD. It
receives the honorable title of "Colonia Romana". Due to the
threat posed by the Sassanides, the site was fortified: reinforcement
soldiers arrive and among them Palmyran peasants.
The
latter is responsible for the construction of the temple of Bel. Many
other places of worship were built here: temples, Christian chapels,
synagogues decorated with frescoes, all bearing witness not only to
the religious fervor of the town's inhabitants but also to their
cosmopolitanism and their tolerance. In the 3rd century, the town and
its walls are pulled down and the site becomes definitively abandoned.
Raqqa
Legends would have us believe that, Raqqa was founded by
Alexander The Great. In reality it was Seleucos 1st Callinicos (244 -
242 BC) who was at the origin. Called Nicephorium during the Hellenic
period, it was baptized Callinicum by the Romans. The Byzantines made
a defensive fortress of it in reply to the danger of a Persian attack,
but apparently it was not- enough as the soldiers of Justinius were
defeated when up against the Sassanides.
The town became Muslim in 639 AD gaining much splendor: The Caliph
Hisham had two palaces built and the Abbassid Caliph, Al Mansour,
restored the town in 754 AD before making it his second capital. Its
strategic position allowed it to protect Byzance and Baghdad. More
beautiful and prosperous than ever, the town attracted Caliph Haroun
Al Rachid who established his summer residence here and gave it a new
name: Al Rafiqa. A program of construction was put in place in order
to strengthen the town and made of it a symbol of Abbassid hegemony.
The Mongol invasion of 1258 AD puts a final term to this age of glory.
Mari
Mari was founded in the 3rd millenium BC in order to
control the river and caravan traffic from which the town perceived
taxes. Between 2000 and 2340 BC, Mari which dominated the whole of the
Mesopotamia, is at its apogee but must give a tax to Ebla. This
richness makes many envious and among them Sargon of Akkad to whom one
attributes the destruction of the town in 2340 BC. At the end of the
3rd millenium, the kings of Ur stretch their suzerainty over Mari.
From 2100 BC to 1800 BC, the "Shakkanak" govern, the town
depends upon Akkad. The 18th century BC is marked by the glorious
reign of Zamri Lim who built a palace of 300 richly decorated rooms,
serving as an active political, economical, and administrative center.
After the Assyrian occupation (1800 BC) and a brief period of
independence (1775 to 1760 BC), Mari is destroyed by Hammurabi in 1758
BC.
THE COAST
The Crac des Chevaliers
The strategic
value of this place has been known for thousands of years: the
Egyptians went into battle here against the kingdom of Mitanni
then against the Hittites in the 15th and 13th centuries. In
1031 AD, a Kurdish emir built the first fortress "Hosn El
Akrad" or The "Fortress of the Kurds". |

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| Raymond of
Saint-Gilles and his troops drove them out in 1099 AD. However, it is
not until 1110 that the French Crusaders, thanks to Tancarade, decide
to install themselves and build a fortress, systematically restored
after each Muslim assault. These works were interrupted in 1271, when
the sultan Baybars takes possession of this stronghold that had
already resisted Nour Ed Din, Saladin, and Adel Abou Baker. The Crac
was in between time sold to the "Hospitaliers"
(monk-soldiers) in 1142 by Raymond 2, the count of Tripoli. The
chapels converted into Mosques and the Latin inscriptions erased, the
site served for a long time as a military base from where the war
against the Crusaders was led and later the Muslim village people made
it their home. They weren't evacuated from the fortress until 1934. |
Safita
The village is constructed around the citadel: "Castel
Blanc". It is mentioned in the Arabic archives as being the
property of the count of Tripoli in 1112 AD. The first fortress was,
mostly, destroyed by Nour Ed Din. Later, the Templars, in charge of
the defense of the region, rebuilt and fortified it. "Castel
Blanc" fell into the hands of the Baybars in 1271, just before
the latter took possession of the Crac des Chevaliers.
Amrit
Occupied from the 3rd millenium BC, the site took the name
of Marathos during the antiquity. At the time of the Persians, when
the nearby island of Arwad was Phoenician
Capital called Arados, Amrit was its continental suburb. In the 1st
millenium, it was at its pinnacle as later following the conquest of
Syria by Alexander the Great in 333 BC. Marathos begins to decline,
finally being abandoned in the 2nd century AD. One can still admire
today the hypogeum tombs and a very beautiful temple: Ma'abed, from
the Persian period (between 6th and 4th century BC).
Arwad
This small island with a sultry past is the same one that
is cited in Genesis in the Bible. The presence of a stream of fresh
water favored the human occupation of the area from very early on and
allowed it to resist several very long sieges. Originally, (a
Canaanite urban center), the island is taken by the Pharaoh Touthmes
3rd, during his fifth campaign in Syria. The Phoenicians used it as a
coastal population base, and the Assyrians and the Achemenid Persians
invested it also. In 333 BC, Gerostratos, the king of Arwad hurries to
put his kingdom at the disposition of the Seleucid invader, an act
that allows Arwad to maintain a certain amount of independence.
Its influence lessens simultaneously with the rise in power of Tartous,
another near continentaly town. The island becomes a museum-town.
Saint- Paul stopped here during his journey to Rome. A Byzantine naval
base, Arwad falls under Arab domination in 460 and finally the
Templars occupied it until the massacre of the last troops of the
Crusaders in 1302.
Tartous
Under the name of Antirados (Anti-Rados: opposite Arwad),
it allowed the Phoenicians to make the liaison with Arwad. It took the
name of Tortose under the French Crusaders, and when the freedom of
worship was accorded to the first Christians, pilgrims came here in
great numbers to visit the first church consecrated to Mary (by
Saint-Peter himself according to the legend). Raymond of Saint- Gilles
took Tortose in 1102 and then the French Crusaders decided to erect
the cathedral of "Our Lady of Tortose" on the same- spot as
the first church in 1123 AD. Towards 1165, the Templars kept the
fortress and resisted to the assaults of Saladin in 1188. But Saladin,
as the Baybars would later do when unable to capture the fortress,
destroyed the town. Tortose finally fell into the hands of the Muslims
in 1291. Afterwards, the cathedral knew several transformations: into
a mosque, Turkish military barracks, and then into a museum in 1956.
Misyaf
In the 12th century, a system of fortresses was put in
place, by the Ismaelians in order to escape the persecutions from the
orthodox Sunnite regimes of Aleppo and Damascus. The fortress of
Misyaf, therefore, had a defensive role during the Seleucid, Roman and
Byzantine periods before falling under the control of the Crusaders in
1103. In 1140, Ismaelians, who made of it (for more than two
centuries) the center of their sect, led by the famous "old man
from the mountains", took the fortress.
Saladin
who had already escaped two assassination attempts conducted by the
sect, besieged Misyaf in 1176 but later gave up. A century later, the
Sultan Baybars became the master of the site.
Qalaat Marqab
Built in 1062 by Muslims, the "Look-Out Castle"
passed over to the Byzantines in 1104 and to the French Crusaders
during its surrender to Roger of Antioch. The order of the "Hospitaliers"
made the fortress bigger in order to make an impregnable stronghold
[end 12th century) which suffered the attacks of the Arabs after Crac
des Chevaliers had fallen into the hands of the latter. After five
months of siege, the sultan Qalaoun took over the stronghold, which in
turn served in the struggle against the Crusaders. A village developed
"intra-muros" then the site fell into oblivion towards the
19th century.
Jableh
This small town of the province houses the remnants of a
Roman theatre which in the past could hold up to 6 000 people. Jableh
firstly served as a port from the time of the Phoenicians until the
present day. Integrated into the Assyrian empire, it was the head of a
Greek colony of the 8th century BC, and above all belonging to the
group of Phoenician sites controlled by Arwad during the Persian and
Seleucid periods. The town was Roman, a Byzantine bishopric then Arab
in 638. In 1109, when Jableh was incorporated into the Principality of
the Antioch, the Roman theatre was transformed into a Crusader's
castle. Taken by Saladin in 1188, it was briefly abandoned, the
returning Crusaders and the occupying "Hospitaliers",
arguing the ownership with the Templars. In taking it over, the
Mameluke sultan Qalaoun puts an end to this dispute.
Lattakia
Originally a small Phoenician village, the Assyrians, the
Persians, then the Seleucids took turns in conquering it. Lattakia,
becoming Laodicee, had an important role in the Kingdom of Seleucos
1st Nicator (311 - 281 BC); the first harbor that works and a large
producer of wine. At the IInd century. Septime Severe, prefering it to
Antioch named Lattakia the capital of Syria. He had numerous works of
enlargement and renovation carried out like the construction of four
colonnaded roads, but the conquests, which followed and above all the
successive earthquakes of 494 and 555, destroyed these improvements.
Justinian rebuilds the town. The Byzantines, the Turks, the Crusaders
and finally Saladin in 1188, conquered the town. Pillaged and burnt by
the Chypriot Crusaders, Lattakia lost its importance with the passing
of time. At the beginning of this century it was only a simple
fishermen's village. When Syria lost Antioch, the port was reborn and
prosperity returned.
Ugarit
The site, called Ras Shamra in Arabic, goes back to the 7th
millennium BC. The period during the 2nd millennium BC was of
important urban expansion of which the discovery of houses, funeral
caves, two temples dedicated to Dagan and Baal and a Palace (15th BC)
are proof. The construction of a royal palace and new living areas
made the town a real urban agglomeration. An important intellectual
center, a type of cuneiform writing was invented here, the world's
first alphabet. Following significant advancements in navigation and
commerce, due to the excellent relations with the Egyptians, the town,
richer, adorns itself with new homes and the palace is enlarged in the
14th and 13th century BC. Falling under Hittite occupation, the town
was obliged to pay an annual contribution. Ugarit was destroyed by the
arrival of the "People of the Sea" and disappeared towards
1180 BC.
The Castle of Saladin
In the 1st millennium BC, the Phoenicians erected a
fortress that was captured by Alexander the Great, the Byzantines, and
finally the Crusaders in 1108. The latter erected a large rampart and
dug a hole in the rocks surrounding their greatest Syrian possession,
which the Muslims took over in 1188 and which became the Castle of
Salah Ed Din, or Saladin. The same year the Mamelukes occupied it.
When peace returned to the region, it was abandoned in favor of more
comfortable habitats.
THE VALLEY OF THE ORONTES
Homs
Today capital of Mohafazat (administrative region) and
first industrial and agricultural town of Syria, it was known in the
past under the name of Emese where the empresses Julia Domna, Julia
Maesa, Julla Mammea and Julia Soemia were born. In the 4th century BC,
head of a bishopric, an important Christian community developed.
Catacombs, decorated with mosaics, were found here. Later, the town,
suffering the pillages and fires of the successive conquerors, saw its
archaeological patrimony dry up.
Hama
Fifth town of Syria, one often qualifies Hama as
traditionalist due to its religious conservatism but also romantic
with its norias, huge wheels of wood that have not stopped turning
since the 14th century. As small Aramaean town, it was annexed by the
Assyrians in 820 BC. Few monuments resisted the successive
occupations, Seleucid, Roman, Byzantine, and the Arab empires. |
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Seleucides gave it the name of Epiphania in honor of Antiochos 4th
Epiphania, their leader. Situated practically at the halfway point
between Aleppo and Damascus, Hama was often the object of
territorial quarrels between the rival dynasties of Aleppo and
Damscus, especially during the very agitated 11th and 12th
centuries. The first norias were constructed during the
Ayyubid period, a period of great prosperity. The Mamelukes
and the Ottomans followed the example. Saladdin developped
here an orthodox Sunnism that one finds today in the sharp
traditionalism of its inhabitants. |
Aphamea
Aphamea is one of the four towns (The Tetrapolis) founded
by Seleucos 1st Nicator at the beginning of the 3rd century BC, but
the human occupation of the site goes back to Neolithic times.
Hellenized at the end of 5th century BC, it was firstly rebaptized
Pharnake then Pella after the conquest of Alexander in 333 BC. In 64
BC, Syria became Roman. The citadel of Aphamea was destroyed but the
town continued to prosper as a military base until 2nd century AD,
when the construction of the remnants that one can today admire was
started: |

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a colonnade surrounded by public monuments such as the
thermal baths, a theatre, temples and villas. Following several
earthquakes in 115, Trajan ordered the restoration of the town. As for
the colonnade of the principal highway, it was completed under the
reign of Marc Aurelius. Apart from its economic importance, Aphamea
became the center of a school of neo-platonic philosophy that
particularly bloomed in the 4th century. During the Byzantine period,
it was also the home of the adepts of the "mono-physical doctrine
" and provincial capital, head of a bishopric in the 5th century.
Before the Persians occupied it in 573, they pillaged and burnt it.
Passing between the hands of the Byzantines and the Arabs, it was
bought from the principality of Antioch by the Crusaders until 1149,
when Nour Ed Din took possession. Finally a huge earthquake (1157)
destroyed the town, limiting the human settlement to the citadel.
The caravansary and the mosque from the 16th century illustrate the
role later played by the town as a resting-place on the way to Mecca.
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The Castle of Sheizar
Situated at a passage point on the Orontes, the castle was
founded by a regiment of the army of Alexander the Great. Held by the
Byzantines during a hundred-year or so, it fell into the hands of
Arabs who made of it an important base of resistance against the
Crusaders. The latter tried numerous times to take possession, in
vain. Earthquakes associated with the succession of different Arab and
Mongol dynasties seriously damaged it. Baybars and his successor
Qalaoun reconstructed it.
The Castle Ibn Wardan
Undoubtedly, one of the most beautiful from the
archaeological point of view, the fortress was constructed under the
care of Justinius during his last reigning year (564 AD). The complex,
palace, church, military huts, was destined to control the nomad Arab
population rather than to ward off the threat of a Persian invasion.
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